This
is a post about consuming food. Not eating it mind you, but consuming
it. There's a difference. Stay with me.
In
the early-eighties, I read an article in Harper's (or was it
Atlantic?) about the evolution of American agriculture as it
specifically related to the tomato.
The
article detailed how tomatoes had become big business, and as such
were too important to be left to the vagaries of nature. Management
was required. And as a result, modern tomatoes bore only a faint
resemblance to their previously unmanaged selves.
They
shipped better. Lasted longer on store shelves. Were uniform in their
appearance. More disease-resistant. And most importantly, matured
faster.
Now,
that is wonderful stuff. Seriously. I mean, who wants a tomato that
can't hack a week in a produce bin? Or whose delicate
sensibilities are offended by seventy-two hours in the back of a
truck?
Not
me.
But
unless you're a businessman, you may notice one glaring flaw. One
big, giant omission: taste. As in, how did they?
Oh.
Yeah. That. Well...we're working on it.
So.
We were left with tomatoes that resisted disease and lasted longer on store
shelves and were uniform in appearance but really didn't
taste better. The juicy tomatoes which practically demanded to be
eaten in a bath tub appeared to be a relic of my long-ago youth.
Which
is why an article in the Chicago Tribune on a Rockford-based
tomato-grower named Mighty Vine aroused such interest. They were
dedicated to growing tomatoes that possessed, in addition to the many
fine qualities imbued by corporate farms, taste.
Could
the notion of a functioning congress be more radical?
All
was well for several weeks. They were available at the local chain grocery
store and I willingly coughed-up a little more than normal for these
blood-red beauties. I had forgotten what it was like to slice a
tomato and leave a small puddle of juice behind.
They
immediately made salads more vibrant. On hamburgers, their undiluted
tomatoness paired perfectly with a slice of raw onion, thankfully
rendering ketchup irrelevant. Hell, they made everything better.
And
then they were gone.
I'm
guessing you know this game. It's hide and seek turned inside-out.
You search for a product, enjoy it and then the
manufacturer/distributor/wholesaler or retailer hides it.
Be
it Iguana Foods chile rellenos, the Moroccan marinade I used on pork chops, Pepper Jack Doritos, Whole Foods garlic and Parmesan bread, Mars Bars or Palermo's far too briefly available frozen flatbread pizza topped with pesto and mozzarella, if there's
something manufacturers suspect I (and perhaps you) enjoy it will be made
unavailable before you've stuffed the grocery receipt in your pocket.
(While
not entirely edible, I'm wondering how the Suzuki Kizashi departed
these shores without me ever buying one.)
MBAs
with too little to do have identified a certain personality type
prone to this experience. What they haven't figured out is how not to
sell to us. Which in turn raises another question: how will they know
when to discontinue it?
So
while I am driven to the edges of starvation, the shelves at my
favorite grocer remain stuffed with far too many varieties of chicken
sausage, gluten-free tea, turkey bacon, wasabi-flavored corn nuts,
coconut water and the always-execrable mayonnaise.
Worse
is the understanding that by not buying them, I am perpetuating their
availability. Must this be so difficult? So horribly and sickeningly twisted?
I
remind myself this is about unavailable tomatoes—not a lifetime of
grocery store angst. I need to focus. I fight-off memories of Home
Run Inn's Plum Tomato pizza and contact Mighty Vine, determined that these won't slip through my fingers also.
The good news is that they
haven't ceased production. They are merely rebooting and should be
back in my favorite chain grocery store shortly.
My
jaundiced skepticism of business-speak and public relations
propaganda magically falls away as I begin to understand that these juicy red orbs will again re-enter my life.
Such
is the power of the liberated tomato.